Sariosiyo: Gateway to the Hissar Mountains

In the north of Surkhandarya Province the valley rises gradually toward the Hissar Range, one of Uzbekistan's highest mountain systems. At the foot of these mountains lies Sariosiyo District. For most travelers it remains a blank spot on the map, yet it has everything people go to the mountains for: a tall waterfall, a turquoise reservoir, gorges with rushing rivers and villages where life follows old rules. Here is what to see in Sariosiyo and how to plan your trip.

Getting there

Sariosiyo is a district town about 20–25 km from Denau, around half an hour's drive. Denau is the main transport hub of northern Surkhandarya, so it makes sense to arrive in Denau and head into the mountains from there.

Locals travel the Denau — Sariosiyo route, so finding a shared ride is easy. You can return on the Sariosiyo — Denau route. For trips further into the mountains, it is best to hire a local driver for the whole day: mountain roads are narrow, and there is almost no public transport.

The Sangardak waterfall

The district's main natural attraction is the Sangardak waterfall near the village of the same name. Water drops from a high cliff into a narrow gorge, surrounded by greenery, walnut trees and moss-covered rocks. In spring, when the snow melts, the waterfall is especially full and loud.

How to visit:

• from Denau it is about 1.5 hours along a mountain road;
• a path leads from the parking spot to the waterfall, so wear comfortable shoes;
• rocks near the water are slippery, so stay back from the edge and do not climb the cliffs;
• at weekends and on holidays it gets crowded, so arrive early.

Locals sometimes sell tea, flatbread and fruit near the waterfall; prices are approximate, so check.

The Tupolang Reservoir

Tupolang is a mountain reservoir on the river of the same name. The water is a vivid turquoise, with the steep slopes of the Hissar Range rising around it. It is one of the most scenic places in Surkhandarya and a great photo stop.

Remember that the dam is a water engineering facility. Do not enter guarded areas, do not photograph technical installations and do not swim where it is prohibited. The water is cold and the banks are steep. The best light for photos is in the morning and late afternoon, when the sun is not glaring, the color of the water looks especially rich and shadows bring out the shape of the surrounding mountains.

Mountain villages

Higher up the gorges are villages of farmers and herders. Stone and mud-brick houses, terraced orchards, walnut and mulberry trees and springs all make it feel as if time moves more slowly here.

In the villages:

1. Ask permission before photographing people and homes.
2. Dress modestly, as traditions here are conservative.
3. Accept hospitality: you may be invited for tea, which is part of local culture.
4. Stay off private property unless invited.

The high mountains

The Hissar Range is the highest part of Uzbekistan's mountains, and the country's highest point, Khazret Sultan peak (about 4,600 m), rises here. Climbs and high-altitude treks require preparation, special equipment, an experienced guide and permits, as the area borders Tajikistan. For ordinary travelers it is best to stick to walks in the lower gorges and villages.

Best time to visit

Where to stay and what to eat

There are guesthouses in Sariosiyo itself and in some villages, but the choice is limited. Many travelers stay in Denau and make day trips into the mountains.

Try:

• plov and shurpa;
• tandoor flatbread;
• mountain honey, walnuts and dried mulberries;
• fresh fruit in season.

Tips

• Driver. Go into the mountains with a local driver who knows the road. Agree on the route and price in advance.
• Food and water. There are few shops in the mountains, so bring supplies.
• Clothing. Gorges are cool even in summer, especially in the evening.
• Signal. There is no coverage in the gorges, so tell someone where you are going.
• Border. Keep away from the border zone and carry your passport.
• Nature. Take your rubbish with you and do not light fires where it is forbidden.

Day trip plan

1. 8:00 leave Denau.
2. 8:30 arrive in Sariosiyo for breakfast and supplies.
3. 10:00 walk to the Sangardak waterfall.
4. 13:00 lunch in a village or a picnic.
5. 15:00 viewpoints over the Tupolang Reservoir.
6. 18:00 return to Denau.

How to travel

Sariosiyo is a great goal for anyone already in Denau who wants to see the mountains. Choose a ride on Yo'ldosh on the Denau — Sariosiyo and Sariosiyo — Denau routes: drivers are verified and seats are booked in the app. Other directions are on the routes page.

Cover photo: Yormatov Javohir, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.