Sharq Taronalari in Samarkand: The Music Festival at the Registan

Sharq Taronalari ("Melodies of the East") is one of the main music festivals in Central Asia. It is held in Samarkand, and its most striking concerts take place beside the Registan, a square that already looks like a stage set. If you want to hear live music against blue domes, this is one of the most memorable events of the year.

What the festival is

Sharq Taronalari brings together musicians, singers and ensembles from many countries. The programme includes traditional Uzbek and Eastern music, classical works, folklore and contemporary performers. A competition section is combined with gala concerts, and the festival itself is held once every two years (the format is set by the organisers, so check official listings for exact dates and years). The event usually falls in late summer or early autumn, when the heat eases.

Where the concerts take place

• The Registan. The city's main square, framed by three madrasas: Ulugbek, Sherdor and Tilya-Kori. In the evenings a stage and seating are set up here. It is the most atmospheric venue.
• Other venues. Concerts, workshops and meetings are sometimes held in theatres, parks and courtyards of historic buildings.

Space at the Registan is limited, so arrive early and follow the entry rules. Ticket and invitation information is published by the organisers and city box offices; do not buy tickets from random people at the entrance.

How to get into the concerts

1. Check the current programme and dates on the organisers' websites and social networks.
2. Buy tickets at official box offices, or online if that option is offered.
3. Arrive 1 to 1.5 hours before the start: checks and queues are possible at the entrance.
4. Bring an ID document.
5. Leave large bags behind, as they may not be allowed in.

Some events are free to enter, but places are limited. It is best to confirm the conditions a few days before you arrive.

What the city is like during the festival

During the festival Samarkand is filled with music: groups perform on streets and in parks, fairs and craft rows are open, and cafes and hotels host guests from around the world. The mood is lifted but crowded. In the evening the Registan is packed, while by day you can walk the monuments in peace.

Besides the Registan, the most popular places are:

• the Gur-Emir mausoleum, where Tamerlane is buried;
• the Bibi-Khanym mosque and the nearby Siab bazaar;
• the Shah-i-Zinda necropolis with its turquoise mausoleums;
• the Ulugbek observatory on Kukhak hill;
• the Afrasiab museum with frescoes of the ancient city.

You can see everything in two days, and if you want rest between concerts, allow three.

Where to stay and how much time to allow

During the festival, lodging in Samarkand runs out quickly and prices climb. Book early and pick places near the centre: from the Registan to Gur-Emir you can walk, and after a concert you will not need to hunt for a taxi. If nothing is available, look at the outskirts: the ride to the centre takes 15 to 20 minutes.

The minimum sensible stay is two days: one for the monuments, one for the concert and rest. If you have two concert evenings, take three days.

How to get there

From Tashkent you can reach Samarkand by high-speed train or by car. The Tashkent to Samarkand route is about 300 km and usually takes 3.5 to 4 hours. During the festival train tickets may sell out earlier, so it makes sense to consider other options, for example booking a seat in a shared car in the Yo'ldosh app. The driver publishes the trip in advance, you choose a convenient departure time and see a verified profile. It helps if the concert ends late and you need to plan the next day's return.

Practical tips

• Clothing. After sunset it is cooler than by day; a light sweater helps.
• Shoes. Paving and steps are uneven; comfortable matters more than pretty.
• Water. Carry water, especially if you come in the warm months.
• Photo and video. Check filming rules at the specific venue; some concerts do not allow professional equipment.
• Respect for performers. Do not stand during performances, do not block the view and silence your phone.
• Money. Some vendors take only cash, so carry a small amount in sums.

What else to try

After the concert try Samarkand plov, hot flatbread (Samarkand non is considered one of the best in the country), samsa and sweets at the Siab bazaar. If you have time, drive out of town, for example to Urgut with its bazaar or to mountain lakes. For more directions see the page for Tashkent to Samarkand.

Bottom line

Sharq Taronalari is a rare chance to hear the music of the East where it has sounded for centuries. Learn the dates in advance, buy tickets only from official sellers, book lodging and think through your journey home, and the trip will leave only good memories.

Cover photo: Pixoos, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.