Tamerlane's Gate near Jizzakh: A Gorge with Inscriptions in the Rock

Between Tashkent and Samarkand the road runs across flat steppe for a long time, then, beyond Jizzakh, the mountains suddenly close in and the highway dives into a narrow gorge. For centuries this place has been called Tamerlane's Gate. The main route from Transoxiana to the north ran through here, and it was here that rulers carved inscriptions about their campaigns into the rock, a stone chronicle you can still see today.

What Tamerlane's Gate is

The gorge lies between spurs of the Nuratau and Malguzar ranges, where the Jizzakh basin opens towards the Zarafshan valley. Its local name is Ilon Utdi, which roughly translates as "the snake crawled through". One legend says the passage in the rocks formed where a giant snake slithered past; another says Amir Timur himself opened the way for his armies, which is where the name used in literature comes from.

The practical meaning of the place is obvious at first glance: it is a natural gateway. Whoever controlled this pass controlled the road from Samarkand to Tashkent and on into the steppe. That is why armies marched through here for centuries.

The inscriptions of Ulugbek and Abdullah Khan

The main sight of the gorge is a pair of large inscriptions carved into the rock.

• Ulugbek's inscription dates from 1425. Timur's grandson, ruler of Samarkand and a famous astronomer, had it carved after a campaign against the Moghuls. The text records the campaign and the army's return.
• Abdullah Khan's inscription dates from 1571. The Shaybanid ruler Abdullah Khan II commemorated a victory in a battle fought nearby.

The inscriptions are in Persian, written in Arabic script, and sit high up, so reading them without preparation is hard. Still, a stone record five centuries old is impressive in itself. They are easiest to see in low morning or evening light, when the relief of the letters casts shadows.

How to find it

Tamerlane's Gate is not far from Jizzakh, on the old road towards Samarkand. The gorge is easy to recognise: the steppe abruptly gives way to tall rocky walls on both sides of the road and the railway line.

Finding the inscriptions themselves without help is trickier. The road through the gorge has been widened several times, and the inscribed rocks sit slightly away from the main traffic. Some tips:

1. Ask locals in Jizzakh or your driver; many know where it is convenient to stop.
2. Look for the point where the gorge narrows the most, which is where the inscriptions are on the rock walls.
3. Stop at a safe pull-off rather than on the shoulder at a narrow point.

Where to stop and what to do

A short stop of 20 to 30 minutes is enough to get out, find the inscriptions and photograph the gorge. If you want more time, walk along the rocks and climb a little way up the slope: from above you can clearly see how the road and the railway squeeze through the mountains.

Practical points:

• Traffic in the gorge is heavy and lorries move fast. Do not stand on the carriageway or dash across the road.
• Wear sturdy shoes: the stones at the foot of the cliffs are sharp and loose.
• Do not climb the rocks to reach the inscriptions; it is dangerous and damages the monument.
• In spring the surrounding slopes turn green and fill with poppies, the best season for photos. In summer the gorge is hot but windy.

Getting there

Jizzakh to Samarkand is about 100 km, roughly an hour and a half. Tamerlane's Gate is near the start of that stretch. Coming from Tashkent, the whole journey to Samarkand is about 300 km and four to five hours, and the gorge is roughly halfway.

The easiest approach is to arrange the stop when you book. Yo'ldosh has many daily trips on the Jizzakh to Samarkand and Tashkent to Samarkand routes. Message your driver in the chat that you would like a 15 to 20 minute stop at Tamerlane's Gate; if the other passengers do not mind, many drivers agree. Alternatively, ride to Jizzakh and take a local taxi out to the gorge.

What else is nearby

Jizzakh itself is the birthplace of Sharof Rashidov, with small museums and a market selling local cheeses and dairy products. Further on towards Samarkand lies the Zarafshan valley with its orchards and vineyards. Tamerlane's Gate is a good way to break up a long drive and turn a highway into a route with history.

If you are planning a trip around the country, browse all destinations on the routes page: many of Uzbekistan's historic sites stand right by the road, and you only need to know where to stop.

Cover photo: შალვა მინდაძე 11, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.