Uchkuduk: A Town in the Middle of the Desert

"Uchkuduk, three wells": many people hum this line without realizing it refers to a real town. The song by the band Yalla was known across the whole Soviet Union in the 1980s, and for many Uchkuduk remained a symbol of a distant, almost fairy-tale desert. Yet it is a very real town in the northern part of Navoi Province, in the middle of the Kyzylkum Desert. Its name translates from Uzbek as exactly that: "three wells." Here is where the town came from, how it lives today and what awaits a traveler who decides to see the place from the song.

Where the town came from

Until the mid-20th century there were only wells here, where herders and caravans stopped. Water is the desert's greatest treasure, and places with reliable wells were known and valued for centuries. In the late 1950s mineral deposits began to be developed in the area, and a settlement of geologists and miners grew up nearby. It later received town status. Like Zarafshan, Uchkuduk was created by industry from scratch, in a place with no water, roads or shade.

The song about three wells

The song "Uchkuduk" made the town famous far beyond Uzbekistan. Its light melody, Eastern motifs and image of a desert where wells give life turned it into a hit. In the town itself people are fond of that fame: residents remember the song, it is sung at celebrations, and visitors always want a photo by the welcome sign with the town's name. It is perhaps the most recognizable "brand" among the country's small towns.

Uchkuduk today

Modern Uchkuduk is a small, tidy town of apartment blocks and private houses, with schools, a bazaar and parks. Life here is largely tied to mining, and a railway line runs through town. The atmosphere is calm, people are friendly, and daily life clearly adapts to the climate: in summer the streets empty during the day and come alive in the evening.

What a traveler will see:

• The center and parks, shady islands that are especially pleasant in the evening.
• The bazaar, with fruit from the oases, flatbread, dried fruit and everything you need for the road.
• The outskirts and the desert: dunes, clay flats, saxaul and an endless horizon.
• The sky: far from big cities, the stars shine in a way you rarely see in the capital.

Industrial sites are closed to visitors and must not be photographed. Please respect this rule.

The Kyzylkum Desert

The name Kyzylkum means "red sands." It is one of the largest deserts in Central Asia. Contrary to the stereotype, it is not uniform: sandy ridges alternate with clay flats, low isolated hills and saxaul thickets.

In spring, around April, the desert is covered for a couple of weeks in greenery and flowers: tulips, poppies and other short-lived plants. This is when you may see steppe tortoises, lizards and gazelle tracks. Summer, by contrast, brings heat above 40°C, while winter has night frosts and wind.

Getting there

Uchkuduk is far from the main tourist routes. The nearest large city is Navoi.

Scheduled buses and trains are infrequent, so check timetables in advance. A convenient option is a shared ride on the Navoi — Uchkuduk route: locals regularly travel to the regional capital on business, so finding a seat is realistic. You pay only for your own seat and travel with a driver who knows the desert road.

Desert safety rules

1. Water. Bring more than you think you need, at least 3–4 liters per person for the journey.
2. Timing. In summer, set off early in the morning or toward evening.
3. Signal. Some stretches of the road have no coverage. Tell someone your route and expected arrival time.
4. Clothing. Light clothing that covers your skin, a hat, sunglasses and sunscreen.
5. Walks. Never head into the desert alone or without a local companion.
6. Documents. Keep your passport with you, as checks are possible on the way.

Where to eat and stay

Accommodation in Uchkuduk is modest: a few hotels and guesthouses. Book ahead and confirm the terms by phone through contacts or your driver. You can eat at teahouses and cafes: plov, shashlik, lagman and samsa. Prices are low, but check on the spot.

Who will enjoy Uchkuduk

This trip suits people who:

• love the desert and wide open spaces;
• want to see the place from the famous song;
• are interested in industrial history;
• like to travel off the tourist map.

A trip to Uchkuduk combines well with Zarafshan and Navoi, and in spring with watching the desert bloom.

How to go

If you decide to see the town from the song with your own eyes, choose a ride on the Navoi — Uchkuduk route on Yo'ldosh. Drivers are verified, seats are booked in the app, and you cross the Kyzylkum with someone who knows the road well. Other directions are on the routes page.

Cover photo: karb, CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.