Ugam-Chatkal National Park: the Nanay, Sijjak and Khumsan valleys
The park's three valleys only look alike on the map. Where to find orchards and streams, where the waterfalls and day hikes are, and how to get there from Tashkent via Chirchik and Iskandar.
Ugam-Chatkal National Park was created in 1990 and covers almost all of the mountainous Bostanlyk district: Chimgan, Beldersay, the shores of the Charvak reservoir and the Pskem and Ugam valleys with their side streams. Unlike a strict reserve, people live here, holiday camps operate and most trails are open to everyone. Three valleys — Nanay, Sijjak and Khumsan — are the favourites for one- or two-day trips from Tashkent. Each has its own character.
Nanay: orchards by a rushing river
Nanay lies in the lower Pskem valley above the Charvak reservoir. This is where people go for the feeling of real mountains: the valley is narrow, the slopes are steep and the Pskem roars below. The village is full of orchards that blossom in spring, and in late summer locals sell their own apples and walnuts.
What to do in Nanay:
- walk along the river and up the side gullies, where small waterfalls run in spring;
- climb the trails above the valley for views over the Pskem;
- simply relax by the water — but do not swim in the river, as the current is very strong and the water is ice-cold.
One important point: further up the Pskem valley a border regime applies. Check in advance where the checkpoint currently is and which documents you need, especially if you are a foreign national.
Sijjak: walnuts, a stream and views of Charvak
Sijjak is a village on the northern shore of Charvak, where the valley of the same name opens onto the reservoir. The valley is wider and calmer than Nanay, with orchards and walnut groves along the stream. It is a convenient starting point for walks onto the slopes of the Ugam range: after an hour's climb you get a panorama of Charvak's turquoise water with Chimgan on the far side.
Sijjak works well for families. The trails start right in the village, so you can walk as far as you like and head back to the car. In summer it is noticeably cooler here than down by the water.
Khumsan: trails in the Ugam valley
Khumsan lies in the valley of the Ugam river, not far from where it joins the Chirchik. It is one of the closest mountain spots to Tashkent, and routes of every difficulty start here, from a stroll along the Ugam to serious hikes up to the crest of the Ugam range. The Paltau waterfall, one of the best-known hiking goals in the area, is also in the Khumsan area.
Khumsan suits people who want to walk more: the trails are longer, the climbs steeper and there are fewer people than around Chimgan.
The valleys compared
| Nanay | Sijjak | Khumsan | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Character | Narrow mountain valley, fast river | Wide valley, orchards, Charvak views | Ugam valley, many trails |
| Effort | Easy to moderate | Easy | Moderate to hard |
| Best for | Scenery and nature | Families, first hikes | Serious trekking |
| Note | Border zone nearby | Close to Charvak beaches | Paltau waterfall nearby |
Getting there
All three valleys are in the Bostanlyk district, 70–120 km from Tashkent. The easiest way is to travel in two stages.
- To Chirchik or Iskandar. Chirchik is about 35 km from the capital, and Iskandar is a small town in the Bostanlyk district, closer still to the mountains. You can get there as a shared ride on Tashkent — Chirchik and Tashkent — Iskandar.
- On into the mountains. From Chirchik or Iskandar, take a local taxi or a driver heading towards Charvak to reach Khumsan, Sijjak or Nanay. At weekends the road to the reservoir gets busy, so leave early.
When to go
- April to May — orchards in bloom, full streams and waterfalls at their best.
- June to August — the Charvak holiday season; the mountains are cooler than the city, but trails are hot at midday.
- September to October — the walnut and fruit harvest, mild weather and quiet trails.
- Winter — the valleys are snowbound and many trails are dangerous without experience.
Where to stay
If you want to stay for two days, there are plenty of options. Many holiday camps and guesthouses operate around Charvak, and in the villages themselves — Sijjak, Nanay, Khumsan — locals rent out rooms and raised platforms, or topchans, in their orchards. At weekends and in summer free places are scarce, so book ahead. Pitch a tent only where it is allowed and away from stream beds: after a downpour in the mountains the water in the gullies rises fast. Buy food in Chirchik or Iskandar, as mountain villages have little choice and higher prices.
Safety and park rules
- The national park is protected: do not cut trees or pick rare plants, and light fires only where permitted.
- Tell someone your route, especially if you are heading higher up the slopes.
- Do not swim in the Pskem or Ugam rivers — they are cold and fast even in hot weather.
- In spring, watch the forecast: after rain the trails turn slippery and streams rise.
- An environmental fee is sometimes charged at park entrances — check on site.
A day trip is easy to put together without a car: take a shared ride to Chirchik or Iskandar via Yo'ldosh, then a local taxi to the valley of your choice. Look for today's and tomorrow's trips on Tashkent — Chirchik and Tashkent — Iskandar.
Cover photo: Iplossusvulpes19, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
