Urgench to Khiva: trolleybus, taxi and shared rides over 35 km

Urgench and Khiva sit side by side but live very different lives. Urgench is the modern administrative centre of Khorezm, with an airport, a railway station, markets and offices. Khiva is a museum city that draws tourists from all over the world. They are only 30–35 km apart, and almost everyone who flies into Khorezm makes this trip at least twice. Here is how to do it easily and cheaply in both directions.

In brief

• Distance: 30–35 km depending on where you start.
• By car: 30–40 minutes.
• By trolleybus: about an hour or more, with stops.
• By minibus: 40–60 minutes.
• From Urgench airport to Khiva: 35–45 minutes by taxi.

The intercity trolleybus

Khorezm is known for something unusual in Central Asia: an intercity trolleybus line between Urgench and Khiva. Many travellers ride it just for the experience: slow, cheap and very local. The trolleybus runs through suburbs and villages, along canals and cotton fields, and stops often.

Bear in mind that the trolleybus service and its route have changed over the years, so before you go, ask your hotel or locals whether it is running now and where it leaves from. If it is, it is a good choice for an unhurried ride without much luggage. With suitcases or limited time, a car is easier.

Minibuses

Shared minibuses, including small minivans, run between Urgench and Khiva. They leave when full from set points in both cities, usually near markets and bus stations. This is faster than the trolleybus and still inexpensive. The downsides: limited luggage space, and in summer it can be hot inside without air conditioning.

Taxis

A taxi is the most convenient option if you have luggage, are in a group or are coming from the airport. The car will take you to the gates of Itchan Kala or to your hotel if it can be reached by car. A few tips:

• Agree the fare before getting in. Especially at the airport and station, where drivers meet tourists.
• Confirm the drop-off point. Part of Itchan Kala is pedestrian; cars stop at the West Gate or on the nearest street.
• Late arrivals. If your flight lands late, arrange a transfer with your hotel in advance.

Taxi prices depend on the time of day and your bargaining skills; expect a private car to cost noticeably more than a minibus seat, but for two or three people with suitcases it is reasonable money.

Shared rides

On such a short route, a shared ride means a seat in a car that is already travelling between the cities. Many Khorezm residents commute between Khiva and Urgench every day for work and study, so there are lots of cars in the mornings and evenings. On Yo'ldosh you can find a trip on the Urgench — Khiva route or the other way, Khiva — Urgench, see the departure time and price per seat in advance and book in the app.

A shared ride is especially handy if:

• you are staying in Khiva and need to get to Urgench for business, a train or the airport;
• you are travelling alone and do not want to pay for a whole taxi;
• you need to leave at a specific time, while a minibus may wait a long time to fill up.

Arriving at Urgench airport: step by step

1. Before you fly, decide where you are staying and save the address in an offline map on your phone.
2. If you land during the day, you can simply take a taxi at the exit after agreeing the fare.
3. If you land late in the evening or at night, a hotel transfer is more reliable, as minibuses have stopped running by then.
4. Change a little money or withdraw cash at the airport: small guesthouses in Khiva do not all accept cards.
5. On the way, ask the driver to drop you as close to your hotel as possible, especially if your suitcase is heavy.

From Khiva to Urgench: catching a train or plane

The return trip is usually about leaving. A few rules:

1. For a flight, leave with plenty of time, at least 2.5–3 hours before a domestic departure, and earlier if you are connecting to an international flight.
2. For a train from Urgench, allow at least an hour for the drive and boarding.
3. In the morning traffic between the cities is heavier because people are commuting. Add 10–15 minutes.

Where to stay: Khiva or Urgench

Tourists are almost always better off staying in Khiva: evenings and mornings in Itchan Kala, after the day groups have left, are the best time. Urgench makes sense if you have an early flight, a business trip or a tight budget.

What to do on the way

The road is short and mostly passes through farmland, but if you have time, visit a market in Urgench for the melons Khorezm is famous for, especially in late summer and autumn. Urgench is also a convenient base for trips to the desert fortresses of Ellikkala, though that is a separate day out.

Find trips on the Urgench — Khiva and Khiva — Urgench routes on Yo'ldosh, and other directions on the routes page.

Cover photo: KK70088, CC BY-SA 2.0, Wikimedia Commons.