The Seven Saints of Bukhara: A Route Through the Pirs' Mausoleums

Yetti Pir, or the Seven Pirs, were seven spiritual teachers of the Khwajagan-Naqshbandi Sufi tradition who lived in the Bukhara oasis. Their tombs lie around Bukhara, and a circuit of these places has long been regarded as an important pilgrimage. By tradition, three journeys to the seven shrines are said to equal the hajj to Mecca, a phrase still heard among local people. Below: who these saints were, the customary order for visiting them and how to organise the route.

Who the seven pirs were

According to tradition the seven include:

1. Abdulkhaliq Gijduvani, in the town of Gijduvan.
2. Arif Revgari, in the village of Revgar.
3. Mahmud Anjir Faghnavi, in the Vobkent district.
4. Ali Ramitani, in the village of Ramitan.
5. Muhammad Baba Samasi, in the village of Samas.
6. Sayyid Amir Kulal, in the village of Sukhor.
7. Bahauddin Naqshband, at Qasri Orifon near Bukhara.

Exact village names and spellings of the names differ between sources, so on the ground it is best to rely on signs and on what the caretaker tells you.

The order of the visits

Tradition prescribes going in order, starting with Gijduvani as the first of the teachers and finishing with the Naqshband mausoleum. Such a circuit gives the feel of the path of a disciple moving from one teacher to the next. If you are short of time, at least keep to the general principle: leave Naqshband for last.

Distances and time

The stops are scattered across the oasis, so the complete circle takes a full day, or two if you prefer not to rush. Gijduvan is about 45 kilometres from Bukhara, a drive of 40 to 50 minutes. More on that direction: Bukhara — Gijduvan. The other points lie in the Vobkent, Shafirkan and Kogon districts, with distances between them usually from 10 to 40 kilometres. Kogon, the gateway of Bukhara, is 15 kilometres away: Bukhara — Kogon. The Naqshband mausoleum is about 12 kilometres from the centre.

A two-day sample route

Day one. Morning departure to Gijduvan, visit the Gijduvani mausoleum and the ceramic workshops. Then on to Revgar and Faghnavi, lunch at a teahouse, back in Bukhara by evening.

Day two. Ramitan and Samas, then Amir Kulal, and in the afternoon Naqshband. At sunset, once the heat fades, it is especially peaceful there.

If you have one day, concentrate on Gijduvan, the Kogon direction and Naqshband.

Rules for the pilgrim

These are active sites, so treat them with respect:

• Dress modestly; women should wear a headscarf.
• Enter mausoleum rooms without shoes and leave them in the designated place.
• Speak in a low voice and do not photograph people at prayer.
• Do not cross the path of those walking around the grave or disturb their prayer.
• Donations are voluntary, with no set amounts.
• On Fridays there are more people than on weekdays.

Best time

The most convenient months are April, May, September and October. In summer temperatures in the Bukhara region often exceed forty degrees, so it is better to set out at dawn. In winter the days are short and fog is possible on the roads.

Getting there

The stops are in villages where public transport runs irregularly. You can hire a car for the day, but it costs noticeably more. An alternative is to arrange a ride with a driver heading your way and book a seat through Yo'ldosh. For the first stops, such as Gijduvan and Kogon, this is the simplest method: you pay for one seat, not the whole car. For remoter villages it is better to go with a local driver who knows the road and can wait.

Practical tips

• Carry cash for donations and purchases.
• Download an offline map in advance: coverage in villages can be weak.
• Bring plenty of water, as there is little shade on the way.
• Ask locals for shrine names; they will point out the short way.
• Prices for transport, lodging and hospitality are approximate, so check on the spot.

This route pairs well with a city programme in Bukhara. Browse all routes to choose the right direction.

Cover photo: Humoyun Mehridinov, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.