Chimbay: an old market town of Karakalpakstan

Nukus is a young city; most of its buildings went up in the twentieth century. To get a feel for an older Karakalpakstan, drive an hour north to Chimbay. The town grew up as a trading centre of the Amu Darya delta back in the nineteenth century, when grain, fish, livestock and crafts were brought here from all around. Today Chimbay is a quiet district town, but its bazaar, streets and people still carry the character of northern Karakalpakstan.

Where Chimbay is

Chimbay lies north of Nukus, about 60 km away, a drive of around an hour. The town sits in the middle of the Amu Darya delta, surrounded by rice and cotton fields, canals, channels and reed beds. Further north begin the delta lakes and the former shores of the Aral Sea.

The landscape here is completely different from the Fergana Valley or Samarkand: a plain stretching to the horizon, a huge sky, wind and poplars along the canals. Summers are hot and dry; winters cold and windy.

A little history

In the nineteenth century Chimbay was one of the main trading towns of the Karakalpaks. Large bazaars were held here, drawing herders, fishermen and farmers, while merchants carried goods on to Khiva and beyond. In the early twentieth century the town remained an important regional centre. Later Nukus became the capital of the republic, and Chimbay turned into a quiet district town while keeping its trading spirit.

The Chimbay district is associated with Karakalpak poets and zhyrau storytellers. The Karakalpak epic and the tradition of performing it to the kobyz and dutar are an important part of local culture that is still valued here.

What to see in Chimbay

Chimbay is not a town of museums but a town of everyday life. Things to do:

• Visit the bazaar. It is still the heart of the town, selling fish from the delta lakes, rice, melons, flatbread, dairy products, felt and household goods. In the morning it is noisy and lively.
• Walk the old quarters. Single-storey houses, wide streets, courtyards with awnings and wooden tapchan platforms: the classic architecture of the northern oasis.
• Look at the canals. Channels and canals lined with poplars are a good spot for sunset photos.
• Have lunch in a teahouse. Try Karakalpak dishes (see below).

Karakalpak cuisine

The food of Karakalpakstan differs from Uzbek cuisine and is closer to that of the steppe peoples:

1. Beshbarmak: boiled meat with thin sheets of dough and broth.
2. Fish: fried or baked fish from the delta lakes.
3. Jugari nan: flatbread made from corn or sorghum flour.
4. Tea with milk: drunk all day, often with bread and butter.
5. Melons: in late summer and autumn they are sold right by the roadside.

Chimbay on the way to the Aral

Many travellers head north from Nukus to the delta lakes, Muynaq and the Aral Sea. Chimbay fits neatly into such a route: stop at the bazaar, buy food and water, have lunch and then continue. It is a good break before the long drives across the desert, where shops and cafes are almost non-existent.

If you are planning a trip to the Aral Sea, keep in mind:

• the present-day shore can only be reached in properly equipped 4x4 vehicles with experienced drivers;
• tours are usually organised from Nukus or Muynaq, and the programme and overnight stays should be agreed in advance;
• water, food and fuel should be carried with plenty to spare.

A sample half-day plan

• 8:00–9:00: leave Nukus and watch the rice paddies and delta canals along the way.
• 9:00–11:00: the bazaar, with its fish rows, dairy stalls and felt; pick up bread and tea for the road.
• 11:00–12:30: a walk through the old quarters and along the canals.
• 12:30–13:30: lunch in a teahouse, with beshbarmak or fish and tea with milk.
• After lunch: return to Nukus or continue north.

When to go

The best months are April to May and September to October. In spring the delta is full of birds; autumn brings the melon harvest and comfortable temperatures. Summer afternoons can top 40°C, and in winter cold winds blow from the north.

How to get there

Minibuses and taxis run from Nukus to Chimbay. A convenient option is a shared ride: on the Chimbay – Nukus route drivers post trips on Yo'ldosh, and you can choose a time that gets you back to Nukus by evening. It is cheaper than hiring a whole taxi and easier than waiting for a minibus to fill up. The app shows the driver and the number of free seats.

Practical tips

• Cash is essential: cards are not accepted everywhere at the bazaar or in teahouses.
• Bring sunglasses and a hat; the delta sun is bright and there is little shade.
• In spring and autumn pack a windproof jacket, as the wind here can be strong.
• Photograph people only with permission; in small towns this is especially appreciated.

Chimbay is the Karakalpakstan that does not make it into the guidebooks: market-minded, windswept and hospitable. If you want to see it, set aside half a day and book a seat on the Chimbay – Nukus route, and find other connections across the republic under all routes.

Cover photo: Janabaevazizbek, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.