How to reach the Ugam range: Nanay, Sidzhak and Khumsan

Everyone knows Chimgan and Charvak, but the villages on the far side of the reservoir — Sidzhak, Nanay and Khumsan — are still something of an insider's secret. There are mountain rivers, walnut groves, apple orchards, trails to waterfalls and guesthouses that stay cool in the fiercest summer heat. All of it lies within 100–130 km of Tashkent. There is just one problem: transport runs rarely, and without a plan you can end up stuck in Gazalkent. Here is how to reach each village.

Where the villages are

The Ugam range runs along the border with Kazakhstan and separates two valleys:

• The Pskem valley — the Pskem river flows into Charvak from the north; on its banks stand Sidzhak (closer to the reservoir) and Nanay (further up the valley).
• The Ugam valley — on the Ugam river, which joins the Chirchik below the dam, lies Khumsan.

All three villages share the first part of the route: Tashkent — Chirchik — Iskandar — Gazalkent. After that the roads split.

Part one: to Gazalkent

This stretch is easiest by shared ride. Yo'ldosh has daily trips on Tashkent — Chirchik and Tashkent — Iskandar: you book a seat in the app, pay only for yourself and agree in advance where to be dropped off. Sometimes drivers go further, to the reservoir or the villages — ask in the chat.

Other options:

• Minibuses and buses to Gazalkent from the north-east of Tashkent, about an hour and a half.
• The suburban train to Khodjikent via Chirchik and Gazalkent — it runs rarely, so check the timetable.

Sidzhak

Sidzhak is a large village on the northern shore of Charvak, at the mouth of the Pskem valley. It is known for its walnut groves, orchards and views over the reservoir.

How to get there from Gazalkent:

• minibuses towards Bogustan and Sidzhak leave the bus station several times a day, mostly in the morning;
• a local taxi takes about 40–50 minutes along the reservoir road.

Sidzhak has guesthouses, so many people come for 2–3 days and explore the valley from here.

Nanay

Nanay lies further up the Pskem, in the narrow part of the valley. It is the starting point for walks along the river and into the side gorges.

How to get there:

• from Gazalkent — by local taxi or an occasional minibus via Sidzhak, about 1–1.5 hours;
• from Sidzhak — by taxi or with locals heading the same way.

Note: above Nanay the Pskem valley becomes a border zone. You need permits to go further, and the rules for foreigners are stricter. If you plan to go beyond the village, check the requirements in advance and never try to pass without documents.

Khumsan

Khumsan sits on the Ugam river in a green valley full of orchards and country houses. Unlike Sidzhak and Nanay, you do not get here along the reservoir but via Khodjikent:

• from Gazalkent it is a few kilometres to Khodjikent, then a turn into the Ugam valley;
• to Khumsan itself — a local taxi or minibus from Gazalkent, about 30–40 minutes.

Khumsan works well as a day trip: walk along the Ugam, sit in a teahouse by the river and be back in Tashkent by evening.

Comparison

Times do not include traffic or waiting for transport.

Your own car

By car all three villages are easy to reach; the roads are paved but narrow, with sharp bends. Tips:

• at weekends leave before 8 am — after that the road along Charvak clogs up;
• keep your documents handy at the checkpoints at the entrance to Bostanlyk district;
• fill up in Chirchik or Gazalkent;
• mobile signal drops in places in the Pskem valley, so download an offline map.

When to go

• April–May — orchards in blossom and full rivers, but trails can be muddy.
• June–August — the best escape from the heat; weekends are busy.
• September–October — walnut and apple harvest, golden slopes and quiet roads.
• Winter — snow, some guesthouses closed, and the roads need preparation.

Things to keep in mind

• Transport back. The last minibuses leave the villages in the afternoon. If you have no car, arrange a taxi or ask your guesthouse host in advance.
• Cash. Cards are rarely accepted in the villages.
• Respect for locals. These are living villages, not resorts: dress modestly and ask before taking photos.
• Safety. Mountain rivers are fast and cold — do not swim in them or wade across when the water is high.

In short

The way to the villages of the Ugam range always starts the same way — through Chirchik and Gazalkent. That part is easy by shared ride: see Tashkent — Chirchik and Tashkent — Iskandar. After that, take a minibus or a local taxi. All other destinations are on the routes page.

Cover photo: 26D, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.