Qarshi: what to see in the capital of Kashkadarya
Qarshi rarely makes it onto tourist itineraries, although it has an old mosque, a madrasa and a large bazaar. Here is what is worth a stop on the road between Samarkand and the south.
Qarshi is the regional centre of Kashkadarya and one of the liveliest cities in southern Uzbekistan. It lies on the highway between Samarkand and Termez, so it is most often seen as a transit point. Yet Qarshi's history spans many centuries, and the city has buildings worth a half-hour or a full-day stop.
Location and the road
Qarshi is about 500 kilometres from Tashkent, roughly 150 from Samarkand and some 200 from Bukhara. It is a convenient junction: roads lead from here to Shahrisabz, Bukhara, Guzar and on to Termez. You can plan trips on these routes on the Qarshi to Tashkent, Qarshi to Bukhara and Qarshi to Shahrisabz pages. The road to Shahrisabz takes about an hour and a half, to Bukhara three to four hours, and to Tashkent around eight.
Old Qarshi and its sights
The city has changed names and rulers many times. In different eras it was one of the centres of the Emirate of Bukhara, and buildings from those times still adorn the centre.
- The Kok Gumbaz Mosque, a large sixteenth-century mosque with a blue dome. Its size and proportions are impressive, and the courtyard is quiet and well kept.
- The Khoja Abdul Aziz Madrasa, an old educational institution whose architecture recalls Bukharan models.
- The Abdullakhan bridge and caravanserai, monuments of the Shaybanid era linked to the trade routes that passed through these parts. They show that Qarshi was an important stop for merchants.
- The city bazaar, one of the largest in the region. It sells vegetables, fruit, meat, flatbread and sweets. On market days it is crowded and noisy, but you will feel the character of the city.
Check before you go whether the buildings you want are open: hours and visiting rules can change.
What to eat
Kashkadarya cuisine is hearty and meaty: plov, shashlik, manti, tandoor meat. At the bazaar and in tea houses be sure to try fresh flatbread and dairy products, as Kashkadarya is known for livestock. Prices are moderate, but choose places with many local customers.
Where to stay
Qarshi has hotels and guest houses, but the choice is smaller than in Samarkand or Bukhara. If you are in transit, it is easier to stay one night and leave in the morning.
Using Qarshi in your route
Qarshi makes a good base if you plan:
- Shahrisabz. Timur's city and its Ak-Saray are nearby. Many combine Shahrisabz with a stop in Qarshi.
- Bukhara. The road north crosses steppe and semi-desert. Leave in the morning so as not to be on the highway in the evening.
- Termez and the south. If you are heading to Surkhandarya, Qarshi is one of the last large cities before a long stretch.
Practical tips
- Take water and a hat: summers in Kashkadarya are hot, often above forty degrees.
- Dress modestly when visiting mosques.
- Cash is useful at the bazaar and small tea houses.
- Schedule journeys for the morning so as not to drive in the dark.
- If time is short, see Kok Gumbaz and the bazaar: a few hours will cover them.
When to go
The best time is March to May and September to November. Summer is hot, and winter cool but sunny.
Shared rides from Qarshi
Because Qarshi is a transport hub, drivers leave regularly from here for Shahrisabz, Bukhara and Tashkent. In the Yo'ldosh app you book one seat and see the driver's profile and departure time. It is cheaper than a whole-cab taxi and more convenient than waiting for a minibus to fill. For long trips, such as to Tashkent, agreeing on the pick-up point and luggage in advance is especially important.
Plan your trip
To see available trips, open the Qarshi to Shahrisabz, Qarshi to Tashkent or Qarshi to Bukhara pages. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers passing through Kashkadarya will find the for drivers page useful.
Cover photo: Darvaza, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.
