Halim and Other Winter Dishes of Uzbekistan

When the cold arrives in Uzbekistan, the kitchen changes. Light salads and fresh herbs give way to thick, hot and very filling dishes. Many of them are cooked only in winter, so if you visit in December or January, it is the perfect time to try them.

Halim: wheat, meat and patience

Halim is a thick porridge of wheat and meat. The grain and meat are simmered for many hours until everything turns into a uniform, sticky mass. It is served with melted butter, and sometimes with a little sugar or spices.

What to know about halim:

• it is made from whole wheat and lamb, less often beef;
• it cooks for a long time, sometimes overnight, with constant stirring;
• the taste is soft and gentle with a meaty undertone;
• it is traditionally eaten in the morning or at lunch, after which you will not want to eat for a long while.

Expensive restaurants usually do not serve it. Look in small teahouses and at street sellers who offer halim during cold morning hours. Ask locals where it is cooked in the neighbourhood.

Moshkichiri: rice and mung beans in one bowl

Moshkichiri is a thick porridge of rice and mung beans. It is a simple home dish considered almost dietary: it is gentle on the stomach and filling. Families often cook it when someone has a cold or is simply tired.

Moshkichiri is served:

• with a piece of clarified butter;
• with qatiq (sour yogurt) and herbs;
• sometimes with fried onion and carrot.

It can be hard to find in cafes, so if you see it on the menu, order it without hesitation.

Other warming dishes

Some dishes are neither soup nor porridge in the usual sense. They are true winter food:

• Naryn. Thinly sliced meat with noodles, most often horse meat or lamb. Served in a large plate and eaten with hands or a spoon.
• Kaurma shurpa. A thick fried soup with meat and vegetables. The meat is browned first, then water is added.
• Dimlama. Meat and vegetables stewed in their own juices under a lid, without water. Hot and very aromatic.
• Khashlama. Meat, potatoes and vegetables stewed in layers. Very popular at family gatherings.
• Manti and khanum. Steamed dumplings with meat, ideal with tea.

As you see, in winter Uzbeks love everything that cooks for a long time and is served hot.

Winter sweets and drinks

Hearty dishes are always served with tea, and tea with sweets. In winter the bazaars are especially full of:

• navat (crystallised sugar) to put in tea;
• halva and parvarda;
• dried apricots, raisins and nuts;
• honey from mountain areas.

Sweet tea with lemon or ginger helps you warm up. In teahouses it comes in big pots with small bowls, and you can sip it for hours.

Practical tips for a winter trip

• Winter in Uzbekistan can be frosty, especially in the mountains and the north. In Tashkent and Fergana temperatures hover around zero, but hard cold spells happen.
• Dishes like halim and naryn are very high in calories. Do not order several at once.
• Hot dishes are best eaten right away: cooled halim loses its flavour.
• If you have a sensitive stomach, start with moshkichiri, the mildest option.
• Prices for winter dishes are usually moderate, but check on the spot: they depend on the city and the venue.

Where to try them in the valley

The Fergana Valley is one of the best regions for winter cooking. There are many small teahouses where cooks follow family recipes, and on cold mornings there is often a queue at the door for a hot dish. Apart from the food, the valley is calmer and quieter in winter: fewer tourists, and it is easier to talk to people and learn recipe details.

There are several ways to get there from the capital. The road from Tashkent to the valley crosses the Kamchik Pass, where winter brings snow and ice, so it is better to travel with an experienced driver and not plan a night crossing. For this direction, shared rides are convenient: on the Tashkent — Fergana route page drivers post departure times, and verified profiles and reviews help you choose a reliable one. Booking is done in the Yo'ldosh app, and the full list of directions is on the all routes page.

How to choose what to order

The takeaway

Winter Uzbek cuisine is warmth in the most literal sense. The dishes are simple, but each is cooked for hours with attention to detail. In the cold season, head to the valley or any other region, step into a teahouse where steam rises over the cauldrons, and order whatever is cooking today. It is the best way to understand how people live and what they eat in Uzbekistan when it is cold outside.

Cover photo: Umid1108, CC0, Wikimedia Commons.