Termez: a guide to Uzbekistan's southernmost city
A city on the Amu Darya with a Buddhist past, mausoleums and a scorching summer. Districts, heat, local food and a two-day plan to see the essentials without exhausting yourself.
Termez stands at the very south of the country, on the bank of the Amu Darya, on the border with Afghanistan. This city is older than many of Uzbekistan's famous centres: trade routes crossed here, Buddhists lived here, and Islamic shrines appeared later. Today Termez is a calm southern city where excavations, mausoleums and modern districts coexist, and a trip here suits those who want to see Uzbekistan without crowds of tourists.
How to get there
You can fly to Termez from Tashkent in about an hour and a half, or travel by train and road. The road trip from Tashkent is long, so many people choose the plane or an overnight train. If you travel through the Surkhandarya region or from Samarkand, the road takes about seven to eight hours. See trips between cities on the Termez to Tashkent, Termez to Samarkand and Termez to Denau pages. A shared ride on these routes is an inexpensive alternative to the train, but on a long distance leave in the morning and agree on stops in advance.
Heat and season
Termez is one of the hottest cities in the country. In summer the temperature often exceeds forty degrees, and by day it is better to sit in shade or indoors. Spring and autumn bring a more comfortable climate, and winter is warm and sunny. March to May and September to November are the best times to visit. The landscape is dusty and yellow in summer, green in spring.
What to see
The main sights are close to one another:
- The Archaeological Museum, a collection of finds from the region's Buddhist monasteries. It helps you understand what Termez was two thousand years ago.
- Fayaz Tepa and Kara Tepa, remains of Buddhist monasteries from the early centuries AD. The sites are open air, so come early in the morning.
- Zurmala, the remains of an old Buddhist structure that stands out near the modern city.
- The Mausoleum of Hakim at-Termizi, an important shrine linked to a ninth-century religious scholar. Modest in size, but among the most revered.
- Sultan Saodat, a complex of mausoleums from the eleventh to seventeenth centuries, regarded as the finest architectural ensemble in the region.
- Kirk Kiz, a mysterious ninth-century palace with thick walls and an uncertain purpose.
It is also worth strolling along the Amu Darya embankment: the river is wide here, and the view of the opposite bank is a reminder of how close the border is. Do not approach the border itself, and do not photograph border installations.
How to spend two days
Day one. Museum and Fayaz Tepa in the morning, then lunch at a tea house, a rest during the hottest hours, and in the evening Sultan Saodat and a walk along the embankment.
Day two. The Mausoleum of Hakim at-Termizi and Kirk Kiz in the morning, then the bazaar, where you can buy melons, dried fruit and sweets. In the afternoon set off towards Denau or Boysun.
If time is short, one day is enough: the museum, Fayaz Tepa and Sultan Saodat.
What to eat
The cuisine of the south is spicier and richer than that of the north. Try:
- tandir gosht, meat baked in a tandoor, tender and aromatic;
- shashlik and kazan kebab, familiar dishes cooked generously here;
- plov, as everywhere, but with local accents;
- melons, grapes, pomegranates, which in season are wonderfully sweet and cheap.
Prices in tea houses are moderate, but go by the place: the more locals, the fresher the food.
Where to stay
Termez has hotels of various categories and guest houses. It is best to choose a place with air conditioning, especially in summer. Book ahead in season and check prices on the spot.
Practical tips
- Carry your passport: documents are checked often in a border city.
- Do not photograph border or military installations.
- Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered in mausoleums.
- Drink plenty of water and wear a hat.
- Cash is useful at bazaars and small tea houses.
Where to go next
From Termez you can head north to Denau, known for its bazaar, and to Boysun with its mountain scenery and folklore traditions. The road to Denau takes about two hours.
Plan your trip
To book a seat, open the Termez to Denau, Termez to Samarkand or Termez to Tashkent pages. Other directions are in all routes. Drivers travelling in the south of the country will find the for drivers page useful.
Cover photo: Norbert Pietsch Enpi48, CC BY 3.0, Wikimedia Commons.
