Shahrikhan: one of the biggest bazaars in the Fergana Valley

In the Fergana Valley people like to say that if you cannot find something at the Shahrikhan bazaar, it does not exist. That is an exaggeration, of course, but there is truth in it: the Shahrikhan bazaar is one of the largest and liveliest in the region, and on market days shoppers come from Andijan, Fergana, Namangan and the surrounding villages. For a traveller it is a chance to see the valley the way local people see it: noisy, busy with trade and extremely hospitable.

Where Shahrikhan is

Shahrikhan lies in the western part of the Andijan region, about 30–35 km from Andijan. The drive from the regional capital takes around 40–50 minutes. The town stands on the canal of the same name, the Shahrikhansay, one of the oldest and largest irrigation canals in the valley, lined with orchards and fields.

According to the most common account, the town was founded in the early nineteenth century under the Kokand Khanate and was a trading town from the start: the roads between Kokand, Andijan and Osh met here. That commercial spirit is still easy to feel today.

How the bazaar is organised

The Shahrikhan bazaar is not a single market but a whole trading district with separate rows and yards:

• Food rows. Vegetables, fruit, herbs, several varieties of rice for plov, spices, dried fruit, nuts, honey, dairy products and fresh bread.
• Livestock market. On the edge of the trading area sheep, goats and cattle are sold. It is an unusual sight for city people, but very colourful, especially early in the morning.
• Household and textile rows. Crockery, fabrics, kurpacha floor quilts, atlas and adras silk, knives, tools, children's clothes: everything needed for a home or a wedding.
• Appliances and spare parts. Villagers from all around shop here, so the choice is wide and prices are usually lower than in the cities.

When to go

The bazaar is open every day, but the busiest are the traditional market days, when sellers and buyers come in from the whole district. These are usually at the weekend, but the schedule of the larger sections (especially the livestock market) can change, so confirm the day with locals or your driver. Come early: by 7–8 a.m. trading is in full swing, and by lunchtime, especially in summer, the rows are noticeably emptier.

What to buy

• Dried fruit and nuts. Dried apricots, several kinds of raisins, almonds and walnuts, at prices below those in the capital.
• Textiles. Atlas and adras from nearby Margilan, fabric for kurpachas and ready-made items.
• Crockery. Large lagan platters for plov, tea bowls and teapots, both factory-made and hand-painted pieces from nearby Rishtan.
• Plov spices. Cumin, barberries, dried chilli; sellers will happily tell you how much of each to use.
• Seasonal fruit. Cherries, apricots, peaches and melons in summer; grapes, pomegranates and persimmons in autumn.

Prices at the bazaar are negotiable. Bargaining is normal, but do it politely and with a smile, without pressure. If you are not planning to buy, do not haggle at length just for fun.

What else to see in town

Shahrikhan is a one-bazaar town, but you can spend a few interesting hours here:

1. Walk along the Shahrikhansay canal. Shady banks, small bridges and teahouses by the water make a good place to rest after the market.
2. Have lunch in a teahouse. Like the rest of the valley, Shahrikhan is known for its plov. It is cooked in huge cauldrons for lunch, and by one o'clock the best portions are gone.
3. Look around the mahallas. Single-storey houses behind clay walls, vines over the courtyards and green lanes show the traditional life of the valley.

From Shahrikhan it is easy to add other stops: Andijan with the Jami madrasa and the Babur museum, Asaka with its car plant, and Margilan and Rishtan if you continue west.

How to get there

Andijan is the most convenient starting point. Minibuses and taxis run regularly, but on market days they can be hard to find and taxi drivers raise their prices. A good option is a shared ride: on the Shahrikhan – Andijan route drivers post trips on Yo'ldosh, and you can book a seat in advance for the time you need, including an early-morning departure to arrive when the bazaar opens.

Practical tips

• Cash. The bazaar runs mostly on cash; card transfers are not accepted everywhere.
• Bags. Bring a sturdy bag; you will almost certainly buy more than you planned.
• Safety. Keep your phone and wallet close in the crowds, as at any large market.
• Photos. Ask before photographing people and their goods. Most sellers do not mind and are often pleased.
• Clothes and shoes. Comfortable closed shoes are a must: the rows can be dusty and the livestock market muddy.

Shahrikhan is a place where the valley trades and socialises the way it has for centuries. If you want to see a real Central Asian bazaar without a tourist shop window, come early in the morning on a market day. To get there easily and return with your shopping, book a seat on the Shahrikhan – Andijan route, and look for other valley connections under all routes.

Cover photo: Xasanboy off, CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons.